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Author Topic: G&P M14 Gun Repair near Ann Arbor  (Read 16166 times)

HarnCandy

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G&P M14 Gun Repair near Ann Arbor
« on: August 12, 2016, 11:33:44 AM »

Hey it's my first time on one of these sites but I wasn't sure where else to go. Recently while playing at Futureball Airsoft, my G&P DMR M14 experienced some problems which lead me to take it off the field. At first, I thought it was a problem with the battery (having battery problems before) but upon asking Futureball's staff and having them test a fully charged battery on it, it became apparent it wasn't a problem with the batteries I am using. The staff there offered to take it and look at the problem but I live far from the proshop.

The problem seems to be with power going to the motor or just the motor in general (I'm going off what Futureball's staff told me. I have no knowledge on this stuff). When I pull the trigger, nothing happens. Something that should be mentioned is that my gun is set to deans but because I was arrogant, both my batteries are wired to Timiya. I use an adapter for this. Another problem is that it won't shoot semi-automatic. Don't get me wrong, G&P has a glorious rate of fire but I do want to be able to shoot in semi-auto.

Does anyone know anyone know any tech places or people who could help repair a G&P M14. I live close to Ann Arbor and don't want to go far. For all I know it could be a problem with the adapter not transferring power or something simple. 

T6e9a

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Re: G&P M14 Gun Repair near Ann Arbor
« Reply #1 on: August 12, 2016, 03:36:24 PM »
Hello there,

I have heard using a converter for a deans gun/Tamiya battery, (not the same ratio, but general comparison) is like running a waterfall through a funnel. Deans offers more surface area and thus better flow of electricity. Tamiya connectors constrict the flow, and can lead to the unnecessary heating up(resistance) of wires/batteries/connectors.

But enough about connectors. Other potential problems could be a loose connection somewhere, worn trigger contacts(more so if you use 11.1), loose motor brush/spring/tab, or a pinch or short in the wire. Or possibly some other mechanical part failure.

For semi auto (assuming you know how to change between fire modes), the internal "selector lever/bar" could be broken or stuck, or the cutoff lever OR spring could be detached or broken.

So for each issue your gun is having, it could be a couple different things. I myself am a repairs person, based a little more on the eastern side of the state (Troy/Royal Oak area), but I have been known to work with people, either meeting halfway(or otherwise arranged) or shipping. I'm sure the community can back me and agree that my prices are very reasonable, and that my work is quality.

Feel free to send me a message if you like. Glad to help if I can.
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